26 January 2016

Pre-Fall 2016 : Valentino

I have always thought that Valentino's Creative Directors, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, are the two most talented designers in the industry. The work they do for Valentino is outstanding, captivating and mesmerising. I always feel that I am being taken on a journey with their designs, as if every look has a background story behind it. This collection really emphasised that this time around, with their scenery prints, bold colours and cultural influence.

There was two types of cultural influences in this collection, from what I could interpret. They took the inspiration on from the African theme in their amazing SS16 show, which received high appraisal and great opinions in the industry. This time around they took the inspiration from America, New York being the city for their preview, and the Middle East. For me the differences between the two cultures were great at contrasting the two themes throughout the collections. There were a lot of looks incorporated into this collection, many more than what is usually expected from a Pre collection - 84 in total. When I initially saw the first look from the preview - the beautiful sequinned gown, covered in a gorgeous pattern with gold starts on the shoulders - I knew this collection would be a bold one. The inspiration from the whole collection, according to Maria and Pierpaolo, was the Italian designer Elio Fiorucci who sadly passed away last year. His New York store for his brand Fiorucci, was known as Studio 54 and was used as a creative and artistic space sometimes for artists such as Andy Warhol. The preview was actually held in one of these spaces. According to vogue, the room in which the preview was held was differentiated into two, to contrast the New York theme and Japanese theme.

The them inspired by New York was undeniably eccentric. Bold in colour and bold in pattern. For me, it was if a scene had been printed on the garments. From the red dress with the volcano erupting teamed with sky blue leather boots, to the tie dye jacket with butterflies embroidered onto the pockets. So much was going on but it just worked. It was executed in the "Valentino" way that it was still wearable and applaudable ... by all means, there was a thin line between this style and bizarre but it just worked! The Japanese section was more soft, feminine and subtle, and I loved the colours that were incorporated into those pieces. The gorgeous Ombré effect coat, using pink and cream was a favourite of mine. It was a complete contrast from the first look we saw. The mint green flats and the absolutely stunning classic Valentino bag with the Japanese print on it was so lovely and easy on the eye - it was definitely my favourite segment out of the two. Of course having said this, I am almost certain that both the designs made a coincious effort to include every colour possible - and they succeeded. The Japanese influence enforced the prints of cherry blossoms and gorgeous pyjama sets which I have seen in a few different collections for Pre-Fall, so will this be the new trend? I think so.


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