17 January 2016

Pre-Fall 2016 : Philipp Plein

 You know a collection is strong when it stands out from a busy background...

I have never written or posted about Philipp Plein before, so I had to do some background research and recover some of his previous collections to be able to review the collection. Philipp Plein is a German designer and in my opinion, after reviewing this collection, an extremely underrated one. I think it's fair to say that Philip Plein's brand isn't necessarily considered one of the most famous in the world, but I predict that in the next 5 years - this brand is going to explode.

Philipp Plein originally studied Law and actually designed furniture for friends and family in the early start of his career. His interior designs eventually grasped the attention of expert designs and soon enough the PHILIPP PLEIN Furniture brand was created. He tested the waters with fashion design when he began to design and create bags and accessories from the leftover leathers he had used from furniture. In 2003, he decided to completely dismiss his law interest and interior design and in 2004 PHILIPP PLEIN the fashion brand was born. His first collections were known for being very heavy and strong. A highlight from his initial collections were said to be the vintage military jackets he had improved with crystals and patterns. This attracted much attention from the fashion industry and he was picked up by magazines and journalists instantly. So many career changes and moves happened over the next few years, introducing a "Heavy Metal" collection, appearing on Germany's Next Top Model as well as opening boutiques around the world. By 2012, Philipp had boutiques in Milan, Dubai, Amsterdam, Berlin, Marbella and so many more. British Actor and Gossip Girl star Ed Westwick had featured in the Philipp Plein Menswear campaign for AW12/13.

The first boutique from Philipp Plein was opened in Monte Carlo. The interior design he had designed from his past experiences working in that industry had set the brand image. He used a lot go black and white, modern furniture, polished steel and huge glass chandeliers. His designs for many years have been known to be very bling, heavy and somewhat scientific and robotic. However this collection completely gave us something new, in the form of butterfly patterns, feminine skull and heart patterns and floral patterns. However, he kept the classic Philipp Plein vibe alive by including leather skirts and jackets, teamed with fur and gold studs - as well as incorporating accessories with a big skull embellishment on the front. Towards the end, he put forward a more uplifting mood to his collection with white and red flowers being printed onto a black background. This design features on a tracksuit teamed with a skull and stud embellished rucksack, a mini dress contrasted with a leather sleeveless blazer and a long sleeved puffed cocktail dress paired with flat buckled boots. I adored his take for evening wear, designing beautiful black dresses. For me, this collection was about bringing the rock and roll feel and contrasting it against femininity and innocence. It did work for me. I hope to see more collections like this from Plein in the new future. Watch this space...


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