10 January 2016

Pre-Fall 2016 : Lanvin

"Our focus is on the Lanvin woman, but the evolution of the house as well. It's about finding a balance between the fundamentals but also thinking of who that woman is today. How can you inject that dose of authenticity?" 

As mentioned in my last post on Lanvin, the SS16 collection, I was gutted to see the ever so talented Alber Elbaz resign as the Creative Director of the Fashion House. I thought he gave something so unique to not only the brand, but the industry as a whole. I loved his creativity and captivating designs, and by watching his interviews (exaggerating on the Vogue Voices video online, an interview i recommend to watch!) he was so hardworking and passionate. It was a genuine disappointment for me. However, the industry is ever changing and always has been this way. Seeing Creative Directors come and go is the norm and not at all uncommon. Sometimes this gives the brand a new "re-vamp" and usually for the better. When Alessandro Michele was appointed as head of Gucci in January 2015 I feel that the brand has never looked better. Of course, Tom Ford was an incredible talent for Gucci a couple of decades ago bringing the sex appeal to the house, but I love the artistic and flamboyant feel that Michele has introduced. So, it really does make the industry more exciting and fresh.

On the 6th of January in New York, Lanvin unveiled their Pre-Fall Collection, which of course is the first collection since Alber had stepped down in October 2015. According to online reports and opinions the collection was definitely missing a witty and mystical feel, which was brought down the the absence of Alber. However, Chemena Kamali and Lucio Finale were giving the honour of taking charge of this collection. Will they come back for the next? Who knows, but I guess that is what is keeping the limelight on Lanvin at the moment .... expect the unexpected. Chemena has come fresh from her 4 year experience at the fashion house, Chloe (which I see has definitely somewhat influenced this collection slightly with the typical Lanvin look), and had only just a week to work with Alber Elbaz before he left. Lucio Finale has been at Lanvin for a year, and has had experience with two of my favourite brands, Valentino and Givenchy; so I was expecting very good things.

Personally, I loved this collection. I thought it was fantastic. It was so different from what I saw at the Spring/Summer show and I think I actually preferred it. I thought every look was wearable, luxurious and incredibly styled. Lanvin has always been great at producing pieces that don't just look good, but feel luscious and beautiful. Velvet trousers that were widened at the bottom teamed with an oversized blazer of the same rich burgundy colour, beautiful furs, soft silks and tough leathers. Texture is key. Oversized coats featured were absolutely stunning, which definitely does transition the look from Autumn into winter, which is the key focus of a Pre-Fall collection. Patent leather skirts were contrasted against tops that were puffed at the shoulders - creating a vintage Parisian look that will be certainly appreciated by not only the loyal Lanvin clientele, but new customers. There were clashes of patterns and prints against colour and shape. On paper, this would be a circus, but it just worked - and it's actually quite possibly one of my favourite collections for Pre-Fall this year. Lace slip dresses were draped over long sleeved tops, contrasted with leather bucked boots. I feel this collection was about strengthening the femininity that Parisian fashion, stereotypically, conveys. I liked that, and I for one cannot wait for the Lanvin AW16 show - and more excitingly, who will be the mastermind behind the collection.


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